Baja Travel Blog

This weekend, Jorge and his wife, organized a benefit for their amigo. A car show and parade and a bar b que on Sat., then a drag racing event on Sunday. I was invited to participate and I’m glad I did. Gear heads came from Santa Rosilitia,  San Ignacio, Loreto and as far away as La Paz. Show cars included a pristine ’66 Mustang, 50′s GMC Pickup, a few 70′s Ford PU’s , a ’58 Chevy Pu as well as a bunch of other cool rides. The drag race attracted 100′s of fans and featured 4 modified stock dragsters towed from Loreto and La Paz. Daily drivers also raced, tuners against pick ups, company trucks, quads etc. The quarter mile track was watered down, but the dust was everywhere, making a cold Tecate a must have solution. There were snacks of burritos, nachos, pastries etc, all made by local volunteers. The kids policed the area for trash and cans.

From Russia
Anna and Olga arrived from Russia via a world adventure of 2 years duration. They celebrated the start of year 3 on 11.11.2011. They have been traveling in India, China, Thailand, Cambodia, and many more countries. They spent a week in Mulege at Cuesta Real RV Park / Hotel and are now making their way south to Argentina. We spent time on Coyote Bay where Anna swan near the Dolphins and you can see my dog coming to attention as the Dolphins came close to shore. I’m sure he heard their calls. Anna got with in 4 meters, but the Dolphins were not into playing that day. Another day we took the boat in search of more Dolphins, Sea Lions and maybe Pilot Whales. It had been windy all week and Friday’s forecast was for calm seas in the morning. The night before, I made Shrimp Diablo and grilled Dorado and we all decided no drinking as we were getting up early. Well, maybe just a few.  We were going no matter the seas. Leaving at 6:30, well make that 7:30, as we did have a drink or two, the night before. We headed to Punta Chivato in 5 foot rolling seas to sea the Sea Lions that usually hang out there and on the Isle of Innes. Wither it was a full moon or something else, the Sea Lions were not there. They were probably following the shrimp boats eating on the fall from the nets. We spent another hour on the rolling seas, heading back to Mulege. We stopped at the 2 shrimp boats and asked to buy shrimp. They not only filled a huge bag, but invited us aboard. We took a quick tour and watched as the crew filleted all the fish, cleaned the squid, etc. None of the catch goes to waste, they keep everything in the net. Trouble is, these are draggers and destroy the fishing grounds as they scoop up everything, not just the target fish – shrimp.  Luckily, there are only 2 boats this time and they will only be here a week. The crew and especially the captain, Pedro, were very friendly, offering us lunch and even an invite to go fishing with them.
We got a bag of shrimp, about 3 kilos, for 160 pesos, about 12 dollars for over 6lbs. We left them in search of sea life that is usually aplenty. We headed into the Bahia Concepcion to seek calmed waters and Dolphins. We kept a sharp eye out and found several schools but could not entice them to follow the boat as they usually do. Mousse, my dog, would have loved the sounds they make. We stopped for a swim on a small island with a tiny beach where Olga immediately swam around the island! The day before, she swam out at least a mile! She is a strong Russian woman! We hit another island and beached for another swim as the water was warmer than the air. Time flew by and heading back we encountered the normal afternoon breeze. And more breeze! Normally, a 1 hour return, took 2 hours in the pounding seas. We were soaked, but still smiling. That evening, Anna made a delicious Borscht which was perfect after a cool wet day. It was even better the next day! Recipe on request.
These past few weeks, many interesting travelers have stopped in – I’ll be writing about Thomas, An engineer traveling solo to Argentina in his Toyota Truck/camper and Ares and Christina, from Holland, where they live on a 210 foot ship in Rotterdam.
Now, I’m committed! I have to post more often. But, fishing stories and pics of fish, get boring fast. Let me just say, the Dorado have been small, but still a thrill to watch them dance above the water, and by far one of best tasting fish!

I’ll do a write up this week, stay tuned.

Well, I finally got a new camera. I bought the same as the one I drowned as I have separate lens for it. Surprisingly, I picked it up on ebay for $75, think I paid $700 when new! I’ve been trying to bear the heat, but 2 weeks ago I set up my AC. Now it can be 107 outside and inside I’m comfortable at 75 AND no more mosquitoes or no seeums! and that is huge! A few weeks ago there was a Dorado tourny and I hooked up with a complete stranger, urged on me by friends. I usually fish with Richard and we get along great. Being with a stranger on a small boat for 2 days is well…..Bob assured me he didn’t have much gear and was easy going. He shows up with a 7′ x 3′ fishing bag to hold the catch! Great expectations! It is filled with ice and barely fits in the V bow. Moving it is like moving a body bag. Hence “Body Bag Bob” or BBB for short. The next day I convince him that the fish bag leaks and is a PITA, but he still insists on lugging it along. The Dorado are out about 25 miles and the boat has an iffy fuel pump. Due to the fuel pump and choppy seas, we decided not to risk going out that far. This was also the situation on the second day. BBB and I were both disappointed, but we saved $75 in gas. We try for Yellowtail and BBB hooks something large. After an hour of slow grunts and groans, BBB brings up a 6′ + Manta Ray. We release the ray and try bottom fishing. BBB is not a happy camper. Luckily, we catch a ton of bass and trigger fish and even a Hombolt squid. Had a Bar B Que that night featuring steamed bass and calamari. Happy ending.

Meet a fantastic family from Sweden. They flew into NYC, bought an RV in NJ and started their travels across the USA and into Baja about 6 weeks ago. They stayed at Cuesta Real Hotel / RV park http://hotelcuestareal.com/ for a week, prepping for the journey and then moved to Coyote Beach for a week of warm water and beach life. They are on their way to Panama. Great people.

I bought some snorkeling gear 3 weeks ago and having a blast viewing the vast variety of fish at the different beaches. The water is 75-80 degrees , so no wet suit needed, but sunblock and a shirt are needed to keep the hot sun from scorching. The beaches are not full, maybe half the palapas are in use and most are Mexican families for Norte. There is always a party with lots of food, Tecate and great people. Mousse, my dog, loves the water and thinks anyone swimming is there for him to play with. He gets invited to all the parties. I tag along.

Pepe and Sandra went to the mainland, Leon for their daughters graduation ( the second daughter to become a lawyer). They asked me to be in charge. I’m doing this at the busiest time of the year, 90% of the guests are Mexicanos, I speak very few words of Spanish ( but improving) and have 2 – 17yo helpers and an experienced housekeeper, Nelly and a maintenance man, ChaChuey, none of them speak any english. The 17 yo girl kept using white out and erasers on the reservation sheet, see pic. What a mess. It wasn’t too bad until a guest shows up with a reservation for 2 rooms and convinces someone to give him 3 rooms. Needless to say, I was juggling rooms all week. The families spend all day at the beach then return to cook huge meals and party till the wee hours. As the “manager”, I got invited to all and meet some great people, many of which I will stay in touch with.

I’ve been busy, but not sure what with. Put a new clutch in Antonio’s Suzuki and overhauled his transfer case. It went thru the flood, so there are many problems, but getting them sorted. He bought it for 10 pesos from a guest here. Getting auto parts here is not easy, you order a part, it may or may not come in a week and half the time it is the wrong part. I’ve been adding a lot of graphics to my store and sales have been brisk. http://zazzle.com/zgdesign*
Last night it rained for 2 hours! First rain, other than 2 – 5 minute sprinkles, since Sept. So, today is cloudy, also a first and cool, 95 degrees and 40% humidity.

Here is a Fishing story from my outing 2 days ago.
Dorado (Mahi-mahi)
So it had been about 6 weeks since I was out fishing. Tried to get out many times, but either no gas money, wrong tides, strong winds or whatever, I was anxious. Pepe and Sandra returned Tuesday evening, but slept most of wed. So, today was my big chance. Pepe wanted to go and Mario and possibly another guy. As Pepe has returned to drinking after 72 days sober, I knew it would not make the 5:30 am start, Mario wasn’t going to convince his wife to stay another day and I had serious doughs about the other waking that early. Lo and behold, no one was around at the early hour and that was terrific – I could fish and relax. The launch went smoothly. Having learned my lesson the hard way, I tested the steering before starting and putting her in gear. It was froze solid. Someone else was preparing to launch and the dock was already full with a disabled panga. What to do? A Mexican fisherman jumped aboard and I rocked the engine while he turned the wheel. It finally loosened up enough to get out to sea. I wasted 1/2 hr with the steering and the sun was rising. Made bait, 2 tiny big eye mackerel and noticed two pangas on either side of me, Mateo and Victor, the local fishing tour captains. Off I went and they followed, figured I must be going in the right direction. Got half way to Punta Concepcion and started trolling. Mateo and Victor did the same, but were trolling slightly faster. Suddenly Victors boat has a hit and stops to reel her in. It looked small and dark, maybe a Bonita. Dorado was the target fish for all, but Bonita are tasty too. Not knowing for sure it wasn’t a Dorado, I turn right and double back, Mateo turns left and doubles back. Military precision at its finest. Back to the wedge formation now, heading due east into the hot sun. I’m leading in my red and white boat and the white pangas have got my sides. After about 15 minutes they pull ahead, I debate whither to increase speed and decide it is best that I follow the pros. Suddenly, weeeeeeeeee, my line is flying off the reel, the reel clicker is going 90 mph, my ticker is also going 90 mph. I grab the pole and realize I have a FISH. He is taking line and jumping clear out of the water, golden bright yellow and a brilliant colbalt blue. He quits prancing after about 5 minutes and lets me reel him in. I’m stunned and disappointed, I wanted a true fight. This is too easy. I get him about 10 feet from the boat and start organizing how I will pick up the gaff, while maintaining control of the rod, how I will gaff him , again with out loosing the pole. Wham, off he goes, straight out to the deep sea. The reel is screaming, my muscles are screaming. I’m holding on with everything I’ve got. He turns, I get a few cranks in, he slows, a few more cranks, he rests, a few more turns. Sap, off he goes, but tires quickly. Finally after about 10 minutes ( 2 hours?) I get him near the boat. Now, I he goes under the boat, I do a pole around radio antenna dance, somehow not breaking the antenna or loosing to pole and Mr Dorado. This happens two or three times, And I’m wondering who will win. At some point I grabbed the gaff and launch my attack, then remembering to launch my attack from underneath him and hook him so he can’t side off. Second attempt is strong and grabs him in the head, perfect. I bring him aboard, remove the hook and somehow get him mostly in the cooler, with out him trashing around and making a departure overboard. John Denning had stopped to watch the action. This was my second Dorodo, the first being a tiny 12lb back in Nov, hardly counted. This Bull was about 25 lbs. I celebrate with an ice cold coke and a smoke. I’m still stoked and grab the radio and yell YeeHaa. I caught back up with Victor and
Mateo and gave them the thumbs up sign. And showed them that it was at least 6′ long, well, ……, it was about 42” tho, coiled into a 30” cooler. I troll for another hour out near the Mines, several boats doing the same thing. Radio talk is “they are out here” but no one was taking great numbers. I put the Bimini top up as I’m baking. So now, if I get a hit, not only do I have to shut down the boat, but also put the bimini down. I think it thru, yep, doable if I wedge the pole in my left side, on it in tension against the windshield, kill the engine, reach across the 6′ beam and unsnap the top, etc.. I enjoy the shade for half an hour and realize if I get another fish, this Bimini is going to be one huge PITA. I apply more sun block and lower the Bimini. Another hour and I’m melting, have drank 3 liters of water and 2 cokes and 2 coffees. I decide to head back in and I go over Wilburs Hole again where I got the earlier one. Bam, I get hit again. I watched him jump a few times, but he broke free. I came back in early, with enough gas for tomorrow!! Mahi-mahi is absolutely delicious, as well as being a fun fish to catch. Taking the camera next time!
more info

http://www.mexfish.com/fish/dorad/dorad.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahi-mahi

I lost my camera a few weeks ago, so I’m using a borrowed camera until I can afford a new one and have it brought down here. Actually, I it got submerged on the last fishing trip.
Today I met a fishing family that lives in a colony by the tope. Together they have 4 or 5 pangas and fish daily, weather permitting. The parents, kids ( 4 ) and grand kids ( 6) live in the green house and store the boats, cars, and delivery trucks here also. As you can see, the youngest are put to work scaling the big eye mackerel, using dining forks. The woman are cutting the fillets of Pintos, Cabrillia and other bass, while the men bag the fillets to sell in local markets. They also pack the yellowtail and larger fish on ice for delivery to buyers in La Paz. Quite an experience – Knives are whirling, being sharpened between fish, wheel barrows are moving the fish from boats, trucks and coolers and the kids are laughing and also working at a fast pace. Customers are stopping by, as we did. We bought a 10 kilo yellowtail for 300 pesos (about $1.20/LB) and some cabrilla fillets for 70 pesos/kilo ( about $3/lb)

The water temps are rising, daily wind is less and the seas are calm – let’s go fishing. We have fished for Yellow Tail the last 2 days, with out any luck. While we caught many cabilla and pinto bass for dinner and the smoker, the Yellow Tail are scarce. Yesterday we “made bait” caught – about 24 big eye mackerel in 15 minutes and fished in 250 ft of water. I had 2 gigantic hits and they both took most of my line, but a swivel broke once and my line got cut by rocks on the other. oh well. It was still a thrill. The day was not wasted as we came back with dinner and had a great time, plus the Piot Whales were very active.

Yesterday I had to go to Santa Rosilia a town about 40 miles north of Mulege. Although I have been there many times, this was the first time I took some photos. I needed a front end alignment on the Willys as I had just replaced the ball joints. Pepe, of Cuesta Real, came along for the ride. He became my translator and GPS unit. We had heard there was a state of the art tire shop in town and began asking for directions. Following Pepe’s instructions,……………

we ended up on a dead end dirt road where there was piece of canvas draped over bent poles for shade, an abandoned hi cube truck for tool storage and a junk yard dog. The mechanic proceeded to jack up the Willy’s under my protest. He assured me that this was where everyone went for an alignment and explained he used a steel plate, a 4′ level and string. Under loud protests from the junk yard dog, we left. Asking several others, each transaction taking at least 10 minutes, I had the feeling the tire shop was mikles away, thru several turns etc. It must be, as these directions took for ever. ( Or was Pepe just enjoying a Tecate Chat ). Finally we found the place, on the main highway, just north of town across from the Coke a Cola plant. Notice how long those directions took me to write. Anyhow, it was determined that El Patron would not be back till 3pm and only he could do an alignment. So, off we went to get a haircut. I was hungry, and wanted to meet certain sisters running a good taco stand that I had heard about. Pepe, who is always up for eating tacos and having a Tecate, protested! Something about one should never get a haircut after eating. ( one may hiccup and loose an ear?) I won the argument pointing out that we had 4 hours to kill and there was plenty of time for a few Tecates and beautiful women, errr  I mean tacos. Pepe was happy once we were served by Lara – we had Birria, goat stew  tacos. The tacos were hot, Lara was warm and friendly. Great tacos and a fun conversation. After having Lara promise not to make  perro tacos, we left Mousse and the Willys and walked for a haircut. My GPS unit was feeling the Tecates or his memory was slipping, as we had a hard time finding the Estulo Salon. After walking by it twice, we found it. Haircut was uneventful with no small talk as my Spanish is somewhat lacking, ok, pretty much non existent. The hair stylist thought Pepe was my man servant and promised him a free haircut and mine would be $100! Pepe laughed and explained I was his man servant and to charge us fairly. It was 50 pesos each, about $4. That has never happened before and shocked both of us. Santa Rosalia doesn’t have a large gringo population and many may think all gringos are rich. ( and stupid?)

Santa Rosila is a harbor town, hosting the ferry to the mainland, Immigration offices and the government offices for the Mulege area. The harbor had a few pleasure sail boats and many panga fishing boats. It has 2 bakeries, a good butcher shop and a large dry goods store. We always stock up on these trips. French bread , well sorta french, cleaning supplies and fresh meat. Last trip I got a pork leg, 65 pesos / kilo, boneless chicken breasts, same price, baggttes, sorta, for 5 pesos, sections of cow legs, good for beef stew, 35 pesos/k and some sweet rolls for pennies. The town was built by a mining company and the remains of the processing plant are still standing. The mining company is starting to build a new plant and begin mining again. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Rosal%C3%ADa,_Baja_California_Sur

Back to our adventure.  I was on my third beer and Pepe was on his 3rd 6 pack . Walking back, we pasted a drive thru Tecate store with clean bathrooms and a large selection of Tecate products. We bought another 6 pack. We went back to visit with Lara and have a few laughs and Tecates. I took pics of the steel pre fabbed church, built in 1889 and designed by M Eiffel of Eiffel tower fame. The church was built for the Worlds Fair, then shipped to Baja. Notice that many of the buildings are built of wood. This is very rare here as all wood must be imported. The bakery building, the one with the saw tooth roof, as several others, is built of solid thick planks. I’ve heard these were used as ballast by the French ships, but not sure of that fact. The mining facility is also interesting in that it is a modular prefab constrution similar to the church in that respect. The Premex station across the street, is non typical, it is clean, large, has clean bathrooms and gives you an honest liter of gasoline ( unlike the 2 stations in Mulege)
I rambled off again – After visiting with Lara and her mother we went back to the tire shop and had my wheels balanced while waiting for the alignment guy. After waiting a few minutes we asked the mechanic what time it was – He looked under a hoisted car and said it was 2:30. I couldn’t see a clock and asked how he knew the time. He replied he had the floor marked and the shadow on the floor showed him the time. Mexican ingenuity again. The alignment guy showed up early, a true shock here and did a great job on the alignment. 400 pesos and 340 pesos for the balancing. about 12 pesos to the dollar, so about $60. A great deal. ( The Willys now has a solid front end, new ball joints etc, for about $200. Less than a 3rd of states side prices. Once  the steering gear is installed, which is ordered , the front should be like new.)
Another good day here, where even getting a wheel alignment turns into a fun event.